Why does one watch cost more than another?

Generally, mechanical watches, by nature of their movements, are more costly than quartz watches. Considering this, there are other factors that can influence the price of a watch.

All movements are well designed and precision manufactured. The functional elements make use of the latest technology. In very carefully made movements, all parts, whether functional or not, are finished with great care. All steel components are polished; bridges are decorated and chamfered; all parts are of the highest quality and undergo stringent tests; in short, the manufacturing standards are extremely high.

Case materials vary. There are plastic, resins, stainless steel, base metal (usually brass), gold-plated base metals, gold-filled and precious metals. The back of the watch will generally indicate the material used. Stainless steel is not a precious metal and is widely used in sport watches.

Prices of gold-plated watches vary depending upon the purity of the gold (e.g. 14k or 18k) and the thickness of the plating - measured in microns. Gold plating can range from 2-micron thickness to 30 microns and more. Precious metals used on watch cases include varied levels of gold or gold plating, sterling silver, and in some very high-end watches, platinum.

Crystal types also vary, but with fewer options. Generally, the crystal, which is the glass-like covering designed to protect the dial of the watch, is either plastic, mineral glass, or synthetic sapphire. Mineral glass is most common and very sturdy. Sapphire crystals, more expensive than mineral glass, are not only sturdy, but also highly scratch-resistant.

Bracelets can also influence watch prices considerably. Aside from plastic and rubber strap, leather and metal straps can dramatically affect the cost of the watch. Leather straps can range from $10 to $ 100 for specially treated or exotic (though not endangered) skins. Similarly, metal bracelets can range from inexpensive base metals to precious metals, to specially developed tungsten carbide or titanium. Today, the highly competitive market is such that the quality of watches is driven upward, a trend that translates into a range of products constantly improved in order better to meet consumers' need and expectations.

Quartz Accuracy

Electronics were introduced to the watch industry in the 1960's. The Swiss Watch industry introduced the first quartz movement in 1968. Not only had the movement changed from the traditional mechanical, but analog displays were also being changed to digital.

Quartz watches are extremely accurate thanks to their high frequency of vibrations (32 kHz). Their daily variation is equivalent to much less than a second per day.

Comparatively speaking, the frequencies of oscillations (number of one-way movements of the regulating organ per hour) mainly used in mechanical watches range from 18,000 A/h (2Hz) to 28,800 A/h (4Hz), allowing a variation of less than 10 seconds a day.

Battery Life

Generally speaking, between two and five years, depending on the type of the watch, its dimensions and the quantity of energy requested by the different functions, is the average life of a typical watch battery. For instance, a chronograph will have higher energy consumption than a watch indicating the hours and the minutes only.

Certain types of watches feature a power reserve indicator: when the seconds hand starts jumping every five seconds, it is time to have the battery replaced by a qualified watchmaker. Some watches use a lithium-iodine battery which can last up to ten years.

What is Water Resistance?

It says 'Water Resistant', but can I swim with it?

Water resistance is measured in bars (a unit of pressure, 1 bar being equivalent to 1 atmosphere), and watches are tested at these pressures for certain period of time. Exceptional pressure as when diving, may exceed those limits, so if you are going to dive with your watch, please verify that the watch is rated for this activity.

Manufacturers often measure water resistance to a number of feet (ft), meters (m) or atmospheres (ATM). Watches marked "water resistant" with or without additional indication of high pressure must comply with NIHS 92-10 watch standards (corresponding to ISO 2281 international standard). Such watches are designed for everyday life and must be water resistant during exercises such as short swim. They can be worn in different temperature and pressure conditions but are under no circumstances designed for scuba diving.

Divers' watches must be water resistant at 330 ft minimum usually indicated as 10 ATM. They must also feature a time controller and comply with standards provided by NIHS 92-11 (ISO 6425): luminosity, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and band solidity.

Pressure is also important if parachuting or mountain climbing as pressure changes with altitude.

For regular water use, solid metal cases or specially constructed products are recommended, including screwed-in case backs and crowns. These must remain intact and be carefully checked if the watch is opened for battery replacement. The watch should then be retested to meet original specifications.

Also note that regular exposure to chemicals, or seawater can damage straps, plated cases and bracelets and a solid metal or specially constructed material is recommended if regularly used in these conditions. Cosmetics and perfumes can also cause damage if directly applied to plated dials and straps.